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From Martine Rose to Prada: A Information to Males’s Trend Week


From Martine Rose’s debut as visitor designer at Pitti Uomo to modifications beneath Raf Simons at Prada; Here is a information to the Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear season

With extra U-turns than the British authorities circa 2020, vogue is at its wildest but. However amongst PR crises and extra worldly woes, a starvation for spectacle and contemporary blood reigns supreme – particularly in menswear. From Martine Rose’s Pitti debut to Gucci sans Alessandro Michele, milestone moments abound this January.

Under, this is our information to the Autumn/Winter 2023 menswear season, spanning Pitti Uomo, Milan and Paris.

Massive Footwear to Fill

To speak about gucci with out mentioning camp can be sacrilege. despues de alessandro michele Took the helm in 2015, Gucci has unraveled masculinity, subbing in a sexed-up 70s imaginative and prescient and rendering gender binaries out of date. That stated, questions nonetheless stand: what’s going to comply with in Michele’s wake – plus, who will costume Harry Kinds? For now, the model’s design stays an in-house affair, however A/W23 might be the season this all modifications – earmark January 13 stat.

Talking of exhausting acts to comply with, Louis Vuitton has but to substantiate the successor to Virgil Abloh, its late males’s inventive director. Within the 5 collections since his passing from him, respects to Abloh’s visible lexicon have been pivotal, nevertheless, vogue insiders now predict a change of guard, with Telfar Clemens, martin rose and Grace Wales Bonner within the operating. That the following designer in line is an individual of coloration appears to be a given, since their elevation of him was such a core tenet in Abloh’s personal work of him. Till then, a shock visitor designer – Colm Dillane of KidSuper – will lead the procession for A/W23. Winner of the Karl Lagerfeld LVMH Prize in 2021, Dillane is a welcome curveball, shopping for Louis Vuitton time whereas protecting issues contemporary together with his atypical vogue background and streetwear skew – similarities shared with the late Abloh.

The Massive Canines

Larger is healthier has been the rallying cry of vogue’s main maisons these days. And if the Egyptian Pyramids that backdropped Dior Males’s Pre-Fall 2023 assortment or the Agafay desert at st laurent‘s S/S23 menswear present Had been something to go by, A/W23 is ready to be spectacular.

As for the garments, count on equally bold concepts. Positive, Dior Males’s inventive director kim jones He has all the time cherished a collab, however these previous few years have taken his magpie thoughts to new heights. Calling on Tremaine Emory’s Denim Tears, Bloomsbury Group artists and Eli Russell Linnetz extra lately, the maverick is sure to go large this month. Here is to hoping for a crossover within the realm of Kaws and daniel arsham.

Elsewhere, Saint Laurent’s head honcho Anthony Vaccarello appears intent on transposing Yves Saint Laurent’s revered womenswear – ‘Le Smoking’ go well with, specifically – onto males for a softened tackle tailoring. A/W23 ought to comply with go well with. Over at fendi, the Peekaboo bag has been scaled up because the man-bag mainstay, whereas the Baguette will get dinkier by the season, excellent for guys indulging their repressed Y2K ‘it lady’. What’s subsequent stays to be seen, however no matter follows guys in Mary Janes and crop-top tuxedos is certain to land.

Martine Rose at Pitti Uomo

It is exhausting to think about a designer as rooted in London subculture as Martine Rose, and it is exactly this that makes her first foray past the capital all of the extra momentous. Displaying as Pitti Uomo’s visitor designer, she follows within the footsteps of her de ella peer de ella Grace Wales Bonner, promising overdue kudos on the continent. Fabled as an integral participant in redefining Balenciaga‘s menswear beneath DemnaRose is commonly dubbed the ‘designer’s designer’, however optimistically, her predilection for skewering conventional males’s shapes will speed up her international acclaim at this new profession juncture.

Ones to Watch

Already a family title, Raf Simons is nicely into his tenure as co-creative director of Prada facet by facet Miuccia Prada. But, regardless of Simons’s flying begin, there’s a palpable feeling the Belgian is simply moving into his stride. Certainly, the shuttering of his namesake label and Mrs Prada’s step down as Prada Group CEO counsel change is a foot. Whereas a solo Simons present for Prada appears out of the query for the second, lots of his signature tropes of him – youth tradition, arthouse movie and poetic femininity – have but to announce themselves explicitly. Now that he is discovered his ft from him, Simons might start carving his mark on the home for A/W23 and past.

Elsewhere, membership child visionary charles jeffrey will current his first Milan present, a frightening departure for a designer whose USP owes a lot to London’s queer neighborhood. His current experimentation of him with cues past nightlife, nevertheless, sign a well timed maturation.

When it comes to surprises, put together for many. Rising star Botter made severe waves in September with its ode to the ocean, primed with Caribbean blue suiting and water balloon gloves. Naturally, we’re banking on one other aquatic journey in sartorial innovation. Add to this Wales Bonner’s first Paris outing, which comes after an Afro-Atlantic dissection of Milan’s Medici household final season, Bianca Saunders‘ Jamaican-British spin on minimalism, plus New York favourite Bode’s triumphant return to Paris, and we’re set for some severely considerate vogue.

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